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Northeast Face - 5.7 A2

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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1 set of cams to 2", 1 set of nuts, 1 set of micronuts (Offsets useful), 2-3 hooks, 5-6 tie-offs. . There's alot of fixed gear but most of it is very old and to be considered bodyweight only. A stickclip is useful for the 1st bolt on the 4th pitch.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7 A2
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.50/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


P. 1 5.8? A couple of harder moves and then easy chimneying to the big ledge. P.2 5.7 C2 Starting from the right side of the ledge, move up the corner and traverse left. P.3 C2 Start from the left side of the ledge and move up the thin crack and then up the bolt ladder to another massive ledge. This is where the fixed gear starts to get funky but about every 3rd bolt is new taking the sketch factor down a notch. P.4 5.8 C2 From the right side of the ledge go out the bulge on the bolt ladder and then up onto the Black Knob with either a free move or a hook move. P. 5 C2 (Can be linked with P. 4) Move up, gaining another string of weird fixed gear with mixed free climbing and a couple hook moves.

Descent Options:

Two double rope rappels

Submitted by: onbelay510 on 2009-05-19
Views: 856
Route ID: 99068

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2 Ascents Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.7 A2
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ire510 on 2006-04-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Adventure

Loose rocks make this thing seem different every time I head out there. Always wanted to rope-solo it, talked to people who had. Only team ascented personally.

Added: 2009-09-13

  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: onbelay510 on 2009-04-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Seldom done and super fun.

Great position on a seldom done tower. Most of the rock is super solid except for a band on the 3rd pitch bolt ladder. I would recommend linking the last two pitches. All the belay ledges are huge. We fixed the 1st 2 pitches the 1st day and came back the next day and finished the route. Alot of fun and definately worth doing, especially if you're trying to escape the Smith Rock crowds.

Added: 2009-04-20