Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Mike Richey - 1996
Bolted, but with a high first bolt above the crux. Some optional pro below the first bolt may be desired. Chain anchors.
As you head down the trail this route is on the last big pillar that is right on the trail. It's about 15 feet to the right of "Scene of the Crime." Start in the small alcove on the right. Work some chimney moves up to the overhang and pull through on good holds (crux). You won't be able to reach the first bolt until you're through the crux, so consider using a stick clip, placing trad gear below the overhang and/or using a crash pad (the landing would be rough). Move on to the slabby/knobby face and cruise to the top (5.7-ish). Shares the same anchors as "Scene of the Crime."
Submitted by: Ebb on 2010-07-26
Route ID: 105937
With no stick clip or crash pad available, my climbing partner elected to climb the face up and to the right of the alcove and then traverse back to the left to clip to the bolt above the crux. He estimated this "alternate start" at about 5.8. It protected well with trad gear. This approach then allows one to come back down from that point and attempt the crux of the true start with the first bolt clipped, or to continue on to the top to set a top rope.
Safety rating may be more like PG13 without the first bolt clipped or some other pro placed prior to attempting the crux.