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(18) Tin Tangle / The Americas - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 18
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Rock (Sport)
PG13
1
Bolts (10, 8 enroute + 2 top anchors)
80
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.33/5
  Rock Quality 4.33/5
  Scenery 3.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.33/5

Description:

This route has different names and ratings depending on the guide book, however the descriptions and topos depict the same route.

Located between the Giants Stair Case and Emerald City, this route shares its first bolt with Tin Man and stays to the left. Passing a couple minor roofs, the route continues up to a small ledge perfect for standing on while setting up the top anchors (which are also shared with Tin Man). Easy to find large holds make for easy climbing and comfortable clipping. Make sure to bring one or two long or extendable draws for the third bolt located under a roof.

Although straight forward with simple moves, the slightly runout bolts can make this a less than perfect first lead.

* References:
Weekend Rock Oregon by Ron Horton, The Mountaineers Books, 2006
(Tin Tangle, 5.8) Portland Rock Climbs 3rd ed. by Tim Olson, 2007
(Tin Tangle, 5.8) Rock Climbing Oregon by Benjamin Ruef and Adam Bolf , Falcon Guides, 2006
(The Americas, 5.6)

Descent Options:

Rap down from the chains.

Submitted by: mrbynum on 2008-08-20
Last Modified: 2012-08-13
Views: 1270
Route ID: 88701

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Bigmacrockett on 2009-06-28 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Tin Tangle

Another easy and fun climb at French's

Added: 2009-07-06

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mrbynum on 2008-08-06 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Slightly runout

I realized on this ascent that although an easy route, the bolts are spaced rather far for a beginner lead.

Added: 2008-08-19

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: niccast on 2008-08-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Americas

no comment

Added: 2008-08-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mrbynum on 2007-08-05 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars First lead

My first lead, easy and fun.

Added: 2007-09-19