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Sandy Headwall - WI2 AD

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Pickets, dead man anchors, and a few screws.
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Approach from Timberline Lodge and head west to the Sandy glacier after "climbing" up the ski lifts. Find the only line on the due west face of the mountain. Expect rock fall in all conditions save the deepest freeze. There is an epic bivy above a pile of choss just before the headwall. Several hundred feet of steep snow (50 degrees) leads to a pitch of GI2. Easy climbing from here to the Queens Chair, and follow the obvious line to the summit. Congrats from climbing a route other than the South Side.

Descent Options:

Most people opt for the South Side decent; expect this to detract from the solidarity of the climb that you can otherwise expect. I've herd of people descending of skis, but you better have an insane amount of snow and be a hardman on your sticks.

Submitted by: porcelainsunset on 2010-09-28
Views: 830
Route ID: 106736

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