Start up left of a tree and on a face with good but angled edges. From a good stance 15 ft. up angle left onto a bullet-scarred face and climb desperately to a sloping ledge, then more up right to join with the last move on Jack of Hearts.
Submitted by: nikegirl on 2001-12-11
Route ID: 9053
the climb is not hard even though 11a is a good grade for it, the crux is a sequence, and is a great window into the level of 12+ climbing. Sustained, flowing, on point.... get a rhythm going... move your foot, move our foot, move your hand, move your foot, move your foot, move your hand
also... the bullet scars are always chalked up. but are only 25% of the holds you use.
This one almost cooked me for the whole day, but a few pinches later, the crux was over. It tooks a long bit of studying to find those tiny holds, but they are there. Don't bonk on the overhang afterwards! I had a ton of fun biting the bullet.