Routes : North America : United States : Oregon : Portland Metro Area : Broughton Bluff : North Face : Gandalf
Gandalf - 5.9
Average Rating : 4.11 out of 5Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (16)
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Multi-Pitch Pro to 3 1/2" TCU's or small wire suggested
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Description:
Commence up steep ground to the right of the alcove. A vertical crack climbing leads to a precarious stance on small ledges then move up left(bolts) via sloping insecure smears(5.9+) to Gollum's Hang. Surmount the crux(fixed piton) and belay. The second pitch continues up a crack corner through two small overhangs (5.8) then angles up right to a belay on a small ledge. Above is an obvious wide crack. Climb this to the top and walk off, or rappel from her to previous anchor.
Submitted by: nikegirl on 2006-10-02
Views: 2183
Route ID: 6902
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16 Ascents Recorded
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Read all 16 ascent notes
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: souclimber on 2016-03-26
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GG
Enjoyable and technical for the grade. Enjoyable day in the sunshine
Added: 2016-04-23
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Onsight ascent by: derrickp on 2012-02-25
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One of the most fun routes at Broughton.
This route will make you question the grade but never will you question choosing to do this route. Superb!
Added: 2012-02-25
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Red Point ascent by: brizza on 2011-04-22
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Gandalf's Grip: Round 3
Finally send. I'd add a letter grade to the difficulty because I couldn't feel my fingers at all the rock was so cold. Had to look at my hands to make sure they were on the holds. I led p1 Toby took p2
Added: 2011-04-22
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.10a |
Safety Rating | G |
Hang Dog ascent by: brizza on 2011-02-03
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Gandalf's Grip: Round 2
Climbed with Scott. Led both pitches - fell again at the crux. Fool me once, shame on you. Fool me twice . . . .
Added: 2011-02-03
Ratings | |
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Difficulty | 5.9 |
Safety Rating | G |
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Hang Dog ascent by: brizza on 2011-01-27
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Gandalf's Grip
Michael led p1, I took p2. Slipped off following on the mantle move at the end of p1 - grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr. Super high-quality route. Gotta go get it clean.
Added: 2011-01-27