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Teddy Bear's Picnic - 5.10b

Average Rating = 3.11/5 Average Rating : 3.11 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 2
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (9)
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Mark Whalan, '90
Rock (Sport)
G
2
1st pitch: 10 bolts; 2nd pitch: 10 bolts (optional 3rd belay)
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.11/5
  Rock Quality 2.78/5
  Scenery 3.78/5
  Fun Factor 3.44/5

Description:

"This spooky face grows better with each ascent as knobs snap off on unsuspecting climbers. The friable nubbins on the first pitch are especially unnerving, but the better upper section offers some airy moves on good rock.
1.) 5.10a - Romp up some large potholes and terrifying knobs to the anchors atop the first pitch of No Picnic.
2.) 5.10b - Step right and jet up some good rock past optional belay bolts to the highest anchor. Unfortunately, a massive loose block guards the final moves, so mantel lightly. Descend using two ropes."
-- from Alan Watts' 92 Falcon Guide

Descent Options:

Two-rope rappel from 2nd pitch, or 60m from 1st

Submitted by: NateDaTater on 2010-04-26
Last Modified: 2010-04-29
Views: 664
Route ID: 104546

9 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 9 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: rhei on 2013-11-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars P2 Definitely Worth It

P1 mega-wacos at the start are straightforward. Upper part of the pitch involves multiple pebble-pinching moves. Well protected.
P2 is the money pitch. A sequence of thin moves on traverse ends with a couple of high steps and an interesting final balancey move at the top of an arete. Fantastic position throughout.

Added: 2013-11-12

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: leoand23 on 2013-10-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars only p1

I wished I had done the second pitch too.
P1 was great; you'll have to trust your feet a little more on this one compared to the honey pot neighbour.

Added: 2013-10-06

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Flash Flash ascent by: rode8218 on 2012-05-27 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars good

did the first pitch. thin for sure. stepping up on tiny hold and trusting them is a mind trip.

Added: 2012-05-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: cdrysdale3 on 2007-06-22 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars n/a

Fun through the first few bolts and then the bad rock starts

Added: 2012-04-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: IsayAutumn on 2012-04-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars incredible second pitch

For those of you only doing the knob-gobbling first pitch, you are missing out on one of the best pitches at the grade!

Added: 2012-04-18

... Read all 9 ascent notes