Many Smith climbers call this one of the five best routes in the park! A great moderate/difficult trad climb with wonderful exposure and perfect position on excellent rock - it simply doesn't get much better than this.
p. 1 Diagonal up and right across potholes of several generic grid bolted sport climbs. This used to be unprotected but now you can connect the bolts. (5.6) More difficult alternate starts for hardwo/men are Zebra Seam and Zebra Direct.
p. 2 Step left into the crack and glide over a short well protected (green alien) roof. From here, the climb is blissful a sustained 5.9 jamming and stemming that gobbles small stopper dowen low and open to 3 inches as you reach the top. Belay on two bolts with a large ledge on the left. (.10a)
p. 3 Continue up the crack 30-40 feet then step right for an unprotected 10 foot 5.8 traverse. When possible, continue up lower angled rock on a seam that protects well with smaller pieces. Belay on an uncomfortable stance at two bolts below the final crack. Gear on this pitch is tricky but abundant. (5.8)
p. 4 Yee-haw! A beautiful hand traverse left on the railing (no pro) and fun mantle brings you into the final crack. Get a piece or two and run it out with fantastic liebacks on slightly overhung jugs. Hands are great but solid foot stances for feet are limited. Run it out for a few feet and savor this remarkable pitch. At the ledge, step left and continue up the groove on easy rock to a two bolt belay.
Descent: Follow climber's trail left to Cinnamon Slab rappel.
Submitted by: lucander on 2005-08-23
Last Modified: 2007-01-06
Route ID: 50424
Started our second day here. Every pitch offers variety, with huecos on P1, crack on P2, crack and slab face on P3 and bomber liebacks on P4. The pro for the first pitch would let the lead climber deck, but the climbing is easy enough that it does not feel crazy.