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Double Trouble - 5.10b

Average Rating = 4.07/5 Average Rating : 4.07 out of 5
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Route Summary | Ascent Notes (15)
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Tom Heins, 1990
Rock (Sport)
PG13
1
Well-Spaced bolts
65
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.82/5
  Rock Quality 4.36/5
  Scenery 3.73/5
  Fun Factor 4.18/5

Description:

This pumpy sport route starts on the inside of the chimney formed by the Combination Blocks, on the outside edge closest to the arete. 6 well-spaced bolts, and a positive edge on the arete make it a fun, yet pumpy right arm side pull fest. Use two face holds and a bomber right foot to stand up and grab the arete with your right hand , make one or two side pull/layback moves to the first bolt. Continue to layback the arete to the ceiling where the two blocks meet. Make an exposed and awkward move out onto the second block, getting right back into layback position. Clip three more bolts and thread the chains at the anchors.

Descent Options:

Rap or lower off, single rope, 50 or 60 meter is fine.

Submitted by: brandonsequoia on 2007-10-21
Views: 925
Route ID: 89421

Most Recent Photo

15 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 15 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: critterdude542 on 2011-10-24 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars weird

funky funky funky... felt like i was gonna barn door the whole time. dont know why ppl are giving it a pg13 rating.

Added: 2011-10-24

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
Onsight Onsight ascent by: USnavy on 2011-08-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars a`

a

Added: 2011-08-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: lena_chita on 2011-04-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Tricky

The closely-spaced bolts (by Smith standard, anyway) are very welcome on the tricky layback upper section. If only the rock wasn't polished, it would actually be a fun climb.

Added: 2011-04-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: belikerk on 2010-03-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars interesting

fun to work, need to hone my lieback skills

Added: 2010-04-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: bobbo529 on 2010-04-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars good fun

tricky, intimidating but good fun, liebacking/barndooring while clipping

Added: 2010-04-09

... Read all 15 ascent notes