Routes : North America : United States : Oregon : Smith Rock : 07. Smith Rock Group : Northeast Face : Sky Chimney **

Sky Chimney ** - 5.7

Average Rating : 3.20 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)

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First Ascent:

Type of Climb:

Rock

Safety Rating:

Pitches:

Protection:

nuts and cams to 4' with extra 2' to 4'. Helmets. Chimney on first pitch is runout.

Length :

Consensus Ratings
Difficulty	5.7
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Description:

There are several new bolted routes that cross the first pitch. Some of these may make better first pitches but I will describe the original. To approach traverse left from Asterix Pass to the base a large flake. Pitch 1 5.6 Climb the chimney that forms the right side of the flake cliping a couple of bolts low down. From the top of the chimney move up and right to a large ledge. Pitch 2 5.7 Climb the large corner to a weird hole on the left side of a huge roof. The anchor needs large gear so bring extra. Pitch 3 5.7 Climb the wide corner 100 feet to a large ledge with lots of loose gravel. Cross ledge and climb short chimney. Belay. To descend its possible to rap the route with 2 ropes but not recommended. Rapping Where Ever I may Roam is also possible but the best is to walk off past the Arrow Point then down the west side and back over Asterix Pass

Submitted by: dongonthier on 2002-08-02
Last Modified: 2007-01-07
Views: 640
Route ID: 21388

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6 Ascents Recorded

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Read all 6 ascent notes

Ratings
Difficulty	5.7
Safety Rating	G
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Onsight ascent by: rhei on 2012-06-27 (View Climbing Log)

Linking works out fine

When linking p. 2 and 3 I used double Camalots 0.5 to #2. A second #3 would have been helpful, but c'est la vie. I did find multiple large stopper placements. Recommend bringing a dozen or more slings and draws. Save enough gear to build your anchor at the top.

Overall, a decent trad route. Never that hard but steep enough to require thoughtful balance and position. Watch out for abundant scree at the top.

Added: 2012-06-29

Ratings
Difficulty	5.7
Safety Rating	G

Flash ascent by: gochubug on 2012-05-05 (View Climbing Log)

Ascent Note

Save some big gear for the third pitch when you build your anchor in the 2nd pitch belay hole. To link the 2nd & 3rd pitches, you would have to carry a lot of big gear!

Added: 2012-05-16

Ratings
Difficulty	5.8
Safety Rating	PG13
Exposure
Rock Quality
Scenery
Fun Factor

Red Point ascent by: Perfecto on 2008-04-27 (View Climbing Log)

Mostly fun, always exhilirating

The first pitch gets very wide and has loose stuff to kick down onto your partners, so tread carefully. It's thankfully quite short. I have combined pitches 2-3 before, but you would need a heavy rack with many big pieces to do this, I have also separated them into 2. Pitch 2 has nice finger/hand jams and plenty of holds on the face as well, move to the right before getting to the roof and then belay on the small ledge. Pitch 3, the first moves off belay are exciting, this pitch has lots of exposure, and makes the climbing feel harder than it is. Some wide cracks ~12ft high I wasn't able to protect with the gear I had but I felt safe running it out. There was a manky bolt I wouldn't want to fall on about halfway up, and a redirect bolt above the ledge before the last chimney(move to the L). There were several awkward/interesting moves, the best pitch of the route. Personally I am glad I followed for my first ascent though I climb 5.10 regularly, when I led it those behind me felt some "freakout" factor akin to Panic Point on monkey face. For the top anchor, just sling the huge chockstone and find a comfortable spot to belay, can be hard to communicate with your second. To descend with 2 60m ropes, go 20 feet right and rap to the top of pitch 1.

Added: 2008-05-14

Ratings
Difficulty
Safety Rating	G

Onsight ascent by: stamplis on 2007-10-27 (View Climbing Log)

_

1st pitch is a bit ugly. Can link last two pitches. I wasn't too impressed with the climbing - lots of awkwardness on so-so rock. Position, of course, is spectacular. I though Sky Ridge and White Satin were much better routes.

Added: 2007-10-28