Under an unmistakable roof along the Angel Flight wall, you'll find a shallow-pocketed start. Head up and then immediately left to the first high bolt. Pick your way through the obvious holds to the third bolt, then head up to the roof. Once there, head right on tiny feet and clip the bolt below you, move up into the roof passage. Stem/undercling to next bolt, then pull over as you like. Finish up on small holds, keeping the pump. Quite sustained all the way up, but there are rests to be found. Not for the timid, this will keep a 10ish climber sweating if not squealing. NOTE: awkward to clean on rap, so prep a second.
Submitted by: mugnyte on 2005-09-08
Route ID: 69483
Fun, hard moves split by good rests the whole way. Cruxy getting both hands established above the roof. Really tough for a 10d, but well worth the effort to climb it. Tried this one a couple years ago when 5.10 was my limit and got worked over at the roof; much more doable this time around.