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Astro Monkey - 5.11d popular

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Rock
Gear to 2"
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.67/5
  Scenery 4.67/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5

Description:

Techy crux right off the ground climbing past a few bolts. Then follow a thin crack system through a roof, which widens to a super clean thin-hands crack ending at a large left facing overhanging dihedral. A pumpy move at the top of the dihedral leads to a creepy 5.10 roof, then follow slabs to link onto Monkey Space, which you follow to the top. Super cool route, with good exposure and varied climbing. Usually climbed in five or six pitches, depending on how well you control rope drag on the corner pitch. There is another anchor only about 40 feet above the anchors on the first pitch. Either use them as the first pitch anchors, or skip them on the 2nd pitch and head for the base of the dihedral.

Submitted by: david_smithrock on 2006-07-30
Views: 1660
Route ID: 78458

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4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.12a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: lithophiliac on 2011-09-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars An incredible route!

Climbed this one in prefect weather and perfect conditions. The first pitch was the definite crux for me! The roof crack on pitch 3 was incredible! Pitch 4 felt way harder than the listed .10a, but other than that it was an amazing day on a superb classic!

Added: 2011-09-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11d
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: mattb21 on 2008-06-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars shock the monkey

beautiful climb, everything I wanted it to be.

Added: 2008-06-12

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 2004-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Wild monkey tour!

This route has so much cool terrain. The first pitch seemed very stout; after that it eases off but is a fantastic journey. If the pitches were longer this would be world famous. The pitch up to the monkey's mouth is as good as face climbing gets. Go climb it!

Added: 2007-03-30

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: david_smithrock on 1994-06-17 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Classic route! The first pitch is the crux, unless you are bad at steep stuff, then it may be the pitch going out the west face cave up higher. You can combine the first three pitches if you stretch it out.

Added: 1994-06-17