Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
John Rich, 09/88
7 bolts + 2 bolt anchor
A technical and varied climb on perfect gorge basalt. Start atop the leaning piillar and enjoy pockets, edges, and sidepulls to an exciting crux sequence at 3/4 height. Belaying from the ground beneath the climb and having the climber unclip the first bolt after clipping the second seems to be the best option for safety/rope management. If belaying from the ground and doing the extension (5 more bolts + anchor; fun 10d), a 70m rope gets the climber all the way back to the ground.
Submitted by: souclimber on 2010-09-26
Route ID: 106702
always seemed really hard whenever I would try it. I would give it like one try every year. Even this year it takes 2 tries, but once you unlock the sequence it's not bad! The top is great! no reason to stop short
A brilliant gorge climb that should not be missed. Two cruxes for me; getting to the sloping sidepull pod and clipping, and then moving up from the pod to the next clip. When I got it right, it went really smooth; when I got it wrong the first couple times it seemed really hard. Great route!