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Wizards Tower - 5.7

Average Rating = 4.00/5 Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Greg Orton and Harold Hall
Rock (Sport)
Widely spread bolts
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5


Fun adventurouse climb up a crispy, slabby friction formation,thats shaped a little like a wizards hat.Descending down from the lookout trail is a better option than climbing the mossy,,chossy waterfall wall,and the hike in is faster and easier.Bolt finding is a little tricky.You cant see a lot of the bolts until your right on top of them or have passed them on your left or right 10ft. over.Loose rock,wear a helmet.Wizards Tower is a great warm up for its neghboring wall climb,Black Magic.Wizards Tower is rated 5.7 in the guide,but it is a seriouse climb for the grade.(feels more like 5.8-5.9,on lead).

Descent Options:

Rap off backside with one 60m rope,or rap back down front with two ropes

Submitted by: gordy on 2010-06-30
Views: 1063
Route ID: 105628

1 Ascent Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gordy on 2010-06-29 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Gordy onsights Wizards Tower

Fun climb,with an adventurouse nature.Crispy,technical,slab climbing.170ft.Always bring a quick link or two and some extra webbing,helmet.This climb like all of Acker,is a seriouse climb,even with the 5.7 guide rating.Be ready,have a plan.Some of the best climbing in southern Oregon.

Added: 2010-06-30