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Stair of Saruman - 5.10b

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 3
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Orton and Hall
Rock (Sport)
G
4
bolts, 2 slinged holes
200
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

p1: .9 to .10a crux move at start through a bit of choss but well protected to a sandy lead, 3 bolts. Follow the ledge left to next belay. P2: 10b Crux again is the starting move, rock is good. P3: climb gully like feature to headwall above. About 10 feet below head wall there are 2 holes that can be slinged for protection (.6 to .7). .10a slabby crux move to P3 climbs left around the headwall arete and on top of it. P4: climb the steps (class 3) and finish on the .6 to .7 slab.

Descent Options:

Rappel down Walk the Line or walk off.

Submitted by: iching on 2009-06-02
Views: 482
Route ID: 99641

2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: gordy on 2010-02-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars gordy leads Stairs of Saruman

A little muddy on Feb.18,at start,bouldery move,then treverse left and onto ledge.Then pull over the small overhang and things get very fun.Cool thread through protecion,and a sweet turn around the corner on the steep friction arete .Trust the friction as you climb above the bolt,and a chained anchor will appear.Easier climbing up the large stairs ,get you to the summit.The bottom start feels a bit bouldery.SUPER COOL,A SMALL ADVENTURE!A MUST DO!

Added: 2010-02-19

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10b
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: iching on 2009-05-23 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Added belay and rappel chains

Added chains on the top anchors to P3 and added belay bolts on the sandy ledge ontop P1.

Added: 2009-05-24