Routes : North America : United States : Oregon : Southern Oregon : Rattlesnake Crags : Aurora Buttress : Broken Brain
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Broken Brain - 5.11a
Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
Premier Sponsor:
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Joe Chaves
Rock (Sport)
G
1
bolts/anchors
50
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Description:
Broken Brain is located about 12 feet right of Little Lucy on the Aurora Buttress. Climb fractured rock for two bolts to the solid headwall above. There are solid holds to be found in the lower section, it just takes a little searching.Descent Options:
Rap/Lower
Submitted by: souclimber on 2010-09-03
Views: 169
Route ID: 106448
3 Ascents Recorded
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Rock Quality |  |
| Scenery |  |
| Fun Factor | |
Red Point ascent by:
BB
Generally I'm not a fan of RSnake routes with a low crux on choss but this seems to be an exception. Cool route w/ some neat holds. Second clip can be a little dicey depending on how you do it.
Added: 2012-10-14
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor | |
Broken Finger
I put some tape on my left middle finger do to prevent incurring nerve damage while cranking on a small pocket.
Added: 2010-09-07
| Ratings | |
|---|---|
| Difficulty | 5.11a |
| Safety Rating | G |
| Exposure | |
| Rock Quality | |
| Scenery | |
| Fun Factor |  |
Avoid the numb finger
A wrap or two of tape near the tip of your left hand middle finger will make clipping the second bolt much more enjoyable. Nice climbing low in the bulge and again on the upper slab below the anchor. A worthwhile route.
Added: 2010-09-03
