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Broken Brain - 5.11a

Average Rating = 3.67/5 Average Rating : 3.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Joe Chaves
Rock (Sport)
G
1
bolts/anchors
50
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.67/5

Description:

Broken Brain is located about 12 feet right of Little Lucy on the Aurora Buttress. Climb fractured rock for two bolts to the solid headwall above. There are solid holds to be found in the lower section, it just takes a little searching.

Descent Options:

Rap/Lower

Submitted by: souclimber on 2010-09-03
Views: 282
Route ID: 106448

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: scottb on 2012-10-14 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars BB

Generally I'm not a fan of RSnake routes with a low crux on choss but this seems to be an exception. Cool route w/ some neat holds. Second clip can be a little dicey depending on how you do it.

Added: 2012-10-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: l2ainmaker on 2010-09-07 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Broken Finger

I put some tape on my left middle finger do to prevent incurring nerve damage while cranking on a small pocket.

Added: 2010-09-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11a
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: souclimber on 2010-09-03 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Avoid the numb finger

A wrap or two of tape near the tip of your left hand middle finger will make clipping the second bolt much more enjoyable. Nice climbing low in the bulge and again on the upper slab below the anchor. A worthwhile route.

Added: 2010-09-03