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Slim Pickens - 5.10c

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Gordy Schurman
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
PG13
2
bolts,with chains at top of route
90
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Slim Pickens is located at the end of the Dominator formation,between KaraKorum route 87 and This Aint Area 51 route 88. This route is not for your average 5.10 climber.Its a long sustained route,with a spooky , adventurouse ,nature .The start is on the left side of the arete,in the shallow leaning dihedral.. After the start,(first two bolts), climb through a short crispy section of slab.The rock gets better ,and the route quickly gets steeper to slightly overhung in spots.The right side of the boltline has much better rock quality,and funner moves.The top gets very steep and the last couple moves are really cool,on interesting holds.You can easily summit the formation by placing gear in the crack to the left of the anchors,and climbing easier rock to the top.This is how the first ascent was done.There are no new anchors on the summit,but there are some old half inch bolts without hangers and a big fir tree.Interesting rock formations on the summit.BELAYER beware of rockfall,this route is slightly overhung and has a little fractured rock.(HELMET)Watch out for Rattle snakes.This route will continue getting harder,and funner as more rock is cleaned from the face.

Descent Options:

Rap off chains,or summit on gear to walk off.

Submitted by: gordy on 2010-05-30
Last Modified: 2010-06-09
Views: 521
Route ID: 104989

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2 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: souclimber on 2010-06-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Not for the faint of heart

Belay from above the steps (and start climbing there) or you could potentially get crushed. Belaying from above the steps keeps you out of the rockfall. An interesting line that will get better and harder as future ascents pull off some of the loose stuff. Fun moves that force you to climb as "light" as possible.

Added: 2010-06-07

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10c
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: gordy on 2010-05-29 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars FA on Gordys new route Slim Pickens

Climb shallow dihedral,left of the crispy arete,and follow bolts up the ever increasingly steep route to the chains,( pitch 1).Then climb left and place gear in the crack and climb up easier rock to the summit,( pitch 2).Belayers beware off rockfall,(helmet).Very fun!People that dont mind less than perfect rock and steep terrain will enjoy Slim Pickens.Like my buddy Matt said,not for the faint of heart.

Added: 2010-05-30