Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
Rock (Trad) (Sport)
7 BOLTS ON PITCH1,5 BOLTS +GEAR TO .5 INCHES ON PITCH 2,16 bolts 185 ft.+anchors on pitch 3.
This route was created by Darryl Rasmussen,Jesse Dionne,and Gordy Schurman.It is neighbors with Tango N Torture.Centerfold is on the left of Tango N Torture,and has a distinct right facing dihedral(open book),at the beginning of the second pitch.Sweet slab friction with pockets, edges, and some golden polish,on pitch 1,with 7 nicely placed bolts.You can place a small stopper just a few feet below the last bolt,which protects the crux.Then your at the nice anchors,with a good ledge for rest(90 ft. ,5.10c).Pitch 2 has a cruxy start off the ledge which slightly angles right andup,on thin polished rock.Follow the 5 bolts up with awesome technical ,creative, moves.Then things ease off a bit,as you traverse left into the centerfold,and place solid gear up to .5".Continue up the open book until you reach the next set of anchors,and another good rest ledge(90ft.5.10c).Then climb up185 ft.passing 16 bolts,on awesome slab friction,with pockets,edges,and polished golden patina,to the top anchors.A short 4th class gets you to the top, to walk off.
SCRAMBLE OFF TOP 4TH CLASS ,OR RAP DOWN 3RD PITCH USING TWO 60 M. ROPES,TO TOP OF 2ND PITCH ANCHORS,THEN RAP DOWN USING TWO ROPES,TO GET YOU TO THE BOTTOM,OR RAP P2 AND 1 ONE AT A TIME ON SINGLE 60 M.ROPE.BRING A COUPLE QUICK LINKS JUST IN CASE YOU DECIDE
Submitted by: gordy on 2010-06-25
Last Modified: 2010-07-26
Route ID: 105562
Gordy gets the FA on the third pitch of Centerfold 5.9
Sweet long pitch,that makes your feet hurt after the first two pitches.My buddy lead pitch one and two and let me get the FA on pitch three,since I already had the FA on pitch one and two from a couple weeks before the third pitch was done.The third pitch is slab friction ,with a nice stemy corner at the finish,185 ft. 5.9.This was my first three pitch FA.Super sick!
Super sweet 3 pitch climb.First 2 pitches ,90 ft. each and the 3rd 185ft. Gets you to the top for a 4th class scramble to walk off.Classic route,one of the best in southern Oregon!This one will get your toes pumped.