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P. Waters 9/2009
#00 to 4 1/2
No bolts. There are no in-situ anchors (webbing or cord around trees in this region of the band)
In the small corner of cliffband where Mosserati resides, Eta Eva is climbers right with a minor set-up 20 feet of the deck. Deception Crack is climbers right of Eta Eva, and Project Helter Skelter is the wider steeper crack to the right of Deception Crack. From Proj. HS, the band turns a corner and it is untapped terrain for a ways back to Makeover Band.
Aside from being mossy, from the trail to the set-up ledge is moderate (.8, .9) climbing. From here slightly low angle terrain turns to vert, and then gets cruxy thru semi steeping terrain. Follow a crack that runs north by slightly northwest into a dihedral corner. This climb is no "crack climb" utilize all, edges crimps, minor feet. The crack will keep you protected, but have the minor gear ready to place on the fly. The routes difficulty apexes into the dihedral corner. Once 5.7 climbing and a set of ledges is gained, belay. The route has ridiculous rope drag beyond this section. Take in the neighboring "boulder problem in the sky -top-rope project (unprotectable) while you bring up the second. Second pitch is easy and wandery. Find the gear, don't kick off loose rock. The crux is in the first pitch, just as deception crack and mosserati.
Walk west beyond Gold to the Goldband - if you know where your going. Loose deer trails will travel you all the way back east to single-pitch terrain and the east edge walk-around. Gold Gulley is difficult to find from above, scout it ahead of time if
Submitted by: ire510 on 2012-08-15
Route ID: 112227