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Barad Dur (IV 5.11b) - 5.11b

Average Rating = 3.50/5 Average Rating : 3.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (3)
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Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11c A1
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 2.50/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.50/5


Lots of loose rock and runouts! Not a route to be taken lightly. The first three pitches are rather loose and unsettling, with lots of traversing. The rock gets more solid on the 4th pitch. At the 5th and 6th pitches, get ready for some amazing exposure! Traversing, overhanging 5.11b on the 6th pitch is one of the best 5.11 trad pitches in OR. The 7th and 8th pitches follow more loose runout rock, until angle eases for another 100 feet or so of 4th class to the ridge top. The descent takes about an hour, and involves plenty of ridge traversing and scrambling loose rock. Despite the loose rock and runout nature of the route, the 5th and 6th pitches make it worthwhile. I call it grade IV because it's not a route that climbs fast, unless you have it wired.

Submitted by: david_smithrock on 2006-09-05
Views: 1052
Route ID: 79477

3 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Difficulty 5.12b A2
  Safety Rating X
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: PDubtrad420bong on 1992-04-10 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars climbed that shit!!!

I think Ire510s ascent is a lie, I doubt he actually climbed it... but thasts jsut me. Great route. Totally dangerous, I highly reccomend future generations stear clear. Un less you like 5.11 climbing 40 feet of old 1/4 bolts, the go check it!!! I rope soloed it in 1998 it was one of the coolest experinces of my life. The biby below the roofts was insane!!!

Added: 2011-03-10

  Difficulty 5.10d A1
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: ire510 on 2003-08-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Make it part of your bucket list if you live in Oregon

I aided above everything above 5.10hard. Wasn't climbing .11b. at the time. Always wanted to Rope-solo aid it but needed one more team ascent before I'd head up there lonely.

Added: 2009-09-13

Onsight Onsight ascent by: david_smithrock on 2006-09-05 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Scary, runout, and loose. But the 6th pitch is one of the best 5.11 trad pitches I've done. Take this route seriously.

Witnessed by: Dave M.
Added: 2006-09-05