I should go back and change my previous grade on this route. I think that calling it an 8 is a little much. Probably only a 7 like the book says. Still an awesome route though! Lots of gear till you try to set anchors!
This is a really fun route with lots of good pro. I have a guide book that calls this a 5.7 but i would agree with most on here that it is more of a 5.8 with the strange moves to the roof and the haul over it. Great route if u are looking for a 5.8 with good pro!K
Excellent climb. Best <5.10 at the crag. Varied, sustained, and commiting. TR is a bit of a pain to set - bring webbing and beware the loose tree near the edge - but it's a fun climb for someone pushing their limits on a 5.8. Even better as a lead, with solid gear up to the crux.
Headpointed (TR'd first) this with Ryan. Great climb with really good gear the whole way. Very G, Every piece is solid once the vertical part starts. Cams up to a #1 camalot will do, but a #3 fits well down low. Crux is a bit sequency/balancy. No fixed anchors.
dont overlook this line because of the junk start and the shortness in length. It is pound for pound a great 8 gear line that pushes you to leave the crack/laybacks and head up over the bulge. gear is rather plentiful