THE Classic Eastern Pennsylvania ice route!...and
unfortunately the scene of two accidents, one fatal. One of
the best routes in the state due to its consistent formation
and length. The route is typically climbed in 3 pitches but
skilled leaders can link pitch 1 and 2 with a 60-meter rope.
P1: Climb 70 to a ledge where you can belay on the right or
left (preferred due to icefall) at small trees. P2: Climb 75 up
curtain/pillar (crux) to gain a large, sloping ledge. Belay on
the right near the rappel tree. P3: Climb 185 up a beautiful
headwall (right side more challenging) to stepped and
brushy terrain above. Follow main ice feed to a good-sized
tree on the left with rappel slings. In lean conditions, the
upper ice may be reached by scrambling up left on talus and
broken ledges to a point where you can traverse back right
to the top of the 1st or 2nd pitch, often very vegetated and dangerous.
Two double-rope rappels will bring you down to
the road. Rappel from the large tree atop the cliff to the midway
sloping ledge. Another double-rope rappel will take
you to the bottom. You can also walk off right and descend
down into the Main Gully.
Submitted by: LarryHorwitz on 2010-01-30
Route ID: 103408
Great route. The first pitch is a good warm out of the car to get the blood flowing for the crux curtain. The crux can be intimidating if curtain is thin. Right side is generally easier and more consistent. I would say more like 4+. 3rd pitch is fantastic until you get to the bushes, which are a pain. There are bolts w/ chains at the top, if you can find them and at the end of the 2nd pitch.
I broke the number one rule in ice climbing, which is don't fall, and I fell, haha. Got pretty banged up but continued the climb. My partner forgot his pack up from where we first started rappelling. We worked out a deal with a group who was rapping as well for them to bring the pack down and they could rappel off of our rope to where we were, join their rope with ours, and rappel all the way down to the road. Fun route! Good gear, plenty of options for a descent. Good times!