its a man made crack (thats where the name comes from) very straght and sharp crack the easiest part is the beginning then it progresses as holds be come harder and harder to find, there are a few places to stop but in general you need to keep moving to stay on.
Submitted by: lostangel on 2002-10-17
Route ID: 21811
I don't remember how it came up, except that we all agreed we didn't have a 5.11 crack to climb. Very next day I found myself hanging with a Stihl demo saw covered in lime dust. Several climbers passed by and may have shouted at me, but of course I couldn't hear a word. Got about 2/3 done the first day, then finished up the next. Then I figured 'well, might as well bolt the thing.' so I did. Then, after all my work I didn't even get to do the FA! Not that it bothered me. We were a pretty tight group, and used to 'share' our FA's all the time. As time went by, I think JB went back up there with the gas drill and tried to 'comfortize' the crack a little. it was very sharp and hurt a lot to climb it. I just read a comment here saying not to trust the old bolts. Don't think I used SS, but I do remember they were like 7 inches long.
I was really distracted during this climb so I hangdoged it.. when I do it again I doubt I will fall.. the climb is interesting because it is a man made climb its a crack with only two places that you can stop to take a rest if needed the key is to keep moving.. in the crack you can fit about two or three fingers in it and you half to do alot of footwork and smearing quickly because the crack is sharp and not deep.. (hard to explain) other than that the beginning is easy its a mantel then it just get harder as you progress..