Climb up and left to cave. Clip bolt in cave to protect move out of cave, but then unclip it to avoid serious rope drag. If you're going to climb both pitches in 1 shot, use runners to avoid SERIOUS rope drag. As with all the climbs on this wall, watch for falling rock!
Submitted by: gblauer on 2008-12-11
Route ID: 87113
once out of the cave, this climb is really nice. one of the few decent cracks at BB. rope drag is an issue but can be avoided by unclipping smartly and using long runners. aside from the dirty start, the upper 3/4th of this climb (once thru the cave) are very fun and offer many chances to practice jams and laybacks.
This wall is really really dirty. Holds break off regualarly and the rock falls on to your belayer below. This route goes up the slab, traverses into the cave. Climb the lower bolt in the cave then clip the higher bolt outside of the cave. Go back done and unclip the lower bolt to reduce rope drag. Use some long runners for the bolts below the cave to reduce rope drag. Many say the crux is exiting the cave. I thought the crux was on the very thin face above the cave. I bailed once I pulled the cave. My partner, Nicole, took a twenty footer when she took over the lead. I believe a hold broke and she slipped off, updside down. She was fine, she finished the route. You need 16 draws for this route and you will need to rap from the top to the sub anchors and then down to the ground. Beware, this is a very dirty climb with lots of loose holds.