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Witches Brew Direct - 5.3

Average Rating = 3.62/5 Average Rating : 3.62 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (15)
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Rock
G
2
Cams and Stoppers
180
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.40/5
  Rock Quality 3.60/5
  Scenery 4.60/5
  Fun Factor 4.40/5

Description:

Same start and first pitch as Witches Brew. Pitch two, continue up and left of the roof. Stem up the chimney whose top is blocked by large chockstones. Swing left onto the face to the top. Can be done in a single pitch with a 60M, but rope drag can make the finish challenging. Original line listed in old PA guide.

Submitted by: dredsovrn on 2006-05-25
Views: 1340
Route ID: 51013

15 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 15 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
Red Point Red Point ascent by: FoolyCoolyOo on 2011-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars First Trad Lead

Good route, very well protected. Strange moves below belay.

Added: 2011-10-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.3
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: albecker on 2011-08-11 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun Climb

Easy climb, fun lead with good exposure.

Added: 2011-10-03

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.3
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: fsm109 on 2008-09-12 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Witches Brew Direct

Dirty.

Added: 2009-09-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.3
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: dragonflydanser on 2009-04-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Dusty Climb

My first Multi-Pitch, but could have done it in one, if I had known. Lots of loose pebbles, look out below!! Dusty and draggy at the top. Might redirect the rope out onto the downstream face at the last station to get it off the chimney while belaying second. Nice view. Rugged downclimb...

Added: 2009-08-27

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.5
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: md_rock on 2009-06-07 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars What a climb!

This was my first lead at Chickies. I ended up making it one long pitch, after I blew past where I should have belayed from. 60M a must when doing it as a single pitch. Just be mindful of your runners and rope travel, rope drag near the top can be a bitch.
Chimney was a blast! Fun moves to pull out and around chockstone at the top. A red C3 protects the middle of the chimney and a .75 C4 up higher.

I recommend having two ea. of #1, #2 C4 for this route as the bottom half eats cams.

I broke it down into 4 sections:
1. Ramp #1 (5.3 G)
2. The vertical wall (5.4 G)
3. Ramp #2 (5.3 PG-13)
4. Chimney (5.5 G)

Added: 2009-06-09

... Read all 15 ascent notes