Same start and first pitch as Witches Brew. Pitch two, continue up and left of the roof. Stem up the chimney whose top is blocked by large chockstones. Swing left onto the face to the top. Can be done in a single pitch with a 60M, but rope drag can make the finish challenging. Original line listed in old PA guide.
Submitted by: dredsovrn on 2006-05-25
Route ID: 51013
My first Multi-Pitch, but could have done it in one, if I had known. Lots of loose pebbles, look out below!! Dusty and draggy at the top. Might redirect the rope out onto the downstream face at the last station to get it off the chimney while belaying second. Nice view. Rugged downclimb...
This was my first lead at Chickies. I ended up making it one long pitch, after I blew past where I should have belayed from. 60M a must when doing it as a single pitch. Just be mindful of your runners and rope travel, rope drag near the top can be a bitch. Chimney was a blast! Fun moves to pull out and around chockstone at the top. A red C3 protects the middle of the chimney and a .75 C4 up higher.
I recommend having two ea. of #1, #2 C4 for this route as the bottom half eats cams.
I broke it down into 4 sections: 1. Ramp #1 (5.3 G) 2. The vertical wall (5.4 G) 3. Ramp #2 (5.3 PG-13) 4. Chimney (5.5 G)