A blindly placed #1 ballnut protects the opening crux, tippy TCUs and offset nuts will protect the rest. This is not a very safe climb to try to lead onsight.
Beautiful face climbing on tiny crimps. A highly recommended TR. This wall was too aesthetic to bolt, so we climbed it on marginal gear, as per T. Stryker's recommendations. Make sure to dial the gear before trying to lead this one!
Finishes at 2 Metolius rap hangers right before the top.
Submitted by: joeforte on 2009-10-26
Route ID: 102184
After waiting all summer for the right conditions, I was able to finally lead this beauty yesterday. It was a cool, crisp, fall day and the friction was perfect. It felt amazing to finally bring closure to this project!