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Rotwand Direct - 5.11b

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
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Rock (Trad)
A blindly placed #1 ballnut protects the opening crux, tippy TCUs and offset nuts will protect the rest. This is not a very safe climb to try to lead onsight.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 5.00/5


Beautiful face climbing on tiny crimps. A highly recommended TR. This wall was too aesthetic to bolt, so we climbed it on marginal gear, as per T. Stryker's recommendations. Make sure to dial the gear before trying to lead this one!

Descent Options:

Finishes at 2 Metolius rap hangers right before the top.

Submitted by: joeforte on 2009-10-26
Views: 1311
Route ID: 102184

1 Ascent Recorded

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  Difficulty 5.11b
  Safety Rating R
  Rock Quality
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: joeforte on 2009-10-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Perfect day!

After waiting all summer for the right conditions, I was able to finally lead this beauty yesterday. It was a cool, crisp, fall day and the friction was perfect. It felt amazing to finally bring closure to this project!

Added: 2009-10-26