*Mostly face climbing* --- Start at the vertical slab to the small roof and up through small crimps to the crows nest, this is the crux where a one finger pocket is all you get to get up through various pinches & crimps to the base of the pillar which has multiple slopers to finish it up.
Submitted by: flyinhigh on 2010-10-11
Route ID: 106850
Though I had topped this a month ago, it has still been tough for me & I finally figured out the crux move properly and ran up it 2 more times today. I learned from my friend & used his nice footwork skills to do this. We started a fire down there today so we could keep warm, it made it so nice. Hopefully we'll be able to continue climbing now that we have a warming station!
Cool route that a buddy and I started working a while back...He got it a few weeks back and yesterday I finally got it! Previous description is pretty much spot on, the first few moves can really tire out your forearms and fingers if you don't have the beta for them.
The center section requires quite a bit of balance and finger strength, so getting through the bottom portion quickly is a must.
I climbed this route with a slight variation just before the first crux...A dynamic move to the right immediately following the crimper just prior to the first crux. This may help people who are not as tall, (I am 6'0) and it requires full extension.
I spent this past summer & fall working on this route & finally nailed it. I had to take some time off to strengthen my fingers to get through the crimpers which are so nasty, when you fall off there your fingers burn. Once I had the finger power to get past that, it was the crux by the crows nest which proved to be the greatest challenge. After many attempts I used a one finger pocket up to the left of the nest where I leaned to the right and put my right foot into the nest & was able to stand up and then grab onto a pincher. What a great feeling to get through this route!