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Pillar Route C - 5.10a

Average Rating = 3.83/5 Average Rating : 3.83 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 4
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (6)
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Rock (Toprope)
G
1
TR
80
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 2.67/5
  Rock Quality 3.00/5
  Scenery 3.83/5
  Fun Factor 4.00/5

Description:

start around right side under large (usually chalked) pockets, up until reaching right for a small crack, up to a blank face, crux, finger pockets to huge horizontal hueco pocket (known as the "crow's nest"), then up and left to base of pillar, up pillar to anchor

Submitted by: dharmatreez on 2007-04-04
Views: 1170
Route ID: 84748

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6 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 6 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: smoothflyin1 on 2010-08-10 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Great Route, Lots of Variety!

Nice Route, has a little bit of everything, some nice power moves towards the top on the pillar, very technical in the bottom and mid portions.

There have been quite a few new folks coming out to "try their hand" at climbing with very little experience, so if you are out climbing this one, please keep an eye out and help the new guys out, if something happens it effects all of us negatively.

Setting up the anchors for this route can be interesting, be extra careful if the rock is even remotely damp, good spot is a must if you are climbing up the back side of the pillar to set up.

Great Route, had an awesome time with it :)

Added: 2010-08-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: flyinhigh on 2009-10-21 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars 3 times a charm

made it up clean 3 times in a row today.

here is a link to me doing it in youtube ---

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=caQfT1JwAUU

Added: 2009-10-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: flyinhigh on 2009-09-01 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Summit

I finally made it to the top! It was a little scary for me being 8 feet above my anchor but I held on tight and went from the ground until I was level with the rocks above. It felt good & clean.

Added: 2009-09-01

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: flyinhigh on 2009-08-27 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars It's all in the footwork!

After taking a few days rest from climbing, biking and running my friends and I came back to Beam for some top rope fun. I free climbed up 52 card pick up to set up my anchors. I used 30' of webbing for one and 30' of 7/16" for the other, I like the redundancy of having 2. I wrapped the lines around the rocks up top and let them hang down about 10 feet on the climbing side of the pillar. I then went below and I started nice and slow and when I was at the crux, I toed in real tight with my left foot in this 3 foot tall crack until I was able to get the outside edge of my right foot onto this little edge where I was then able to stand on the crows nest. My new Evolv Defy shoes helped it seemed. I took a breather and then traversed a little to the left and worked my way up to the top of the rope which was about 10 feet from the summit. Next time I'll have to make sure I go until there is no more rock to climb.

Added: 2009-08-27

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: flyinhigh on 2009-07-07 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars my forearms are burning

I sent this route on my 3rd try today after working out the crux yesterday. The sandstone chews you up but makes for some good holds at times. After passing the crux, the blank face, there are plenty of good holds to finish the rest. I only climbed to the base of the pillar as that is where our anchor was set. Next time I'll finish to the top.

Added: 2009-07-07

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