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Eyetooth - 5.8

Average Rating = 5.00/5 Average Rating : 5.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (2)
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Standard rack, fixed gear
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)


Walk around the front of Eyetooth to enter the Chimney on the Southeast side (seperating the main mass from the large outer "flake"). Climb easily up to the top of the chimney and belay on the south west shoulder at the crack leading up and left. Follow the obvious crack up and left on to the South West side of the spire. There should be a fixed pin in the crack up high. Move up out of the crack and right onto the south face to clip a big new bolt (better than the scarry old nail that used to stick out of the face). The angle eases off on the face and the climbing changes completely. The face is very small crystals which you friction and smear on adn palm a few holds. Climb up to the beefy 2-bolt anchor and belay. A double rope rappel brings you to the base of the route. Classic Needles must do with good gear, fun climbing and good exposure on one of the coolest spires in the Needles.

Submitted by: renobdarb on 2003-03-17
Views: 836
Route ID: 33702

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2 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 1995-03-01 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Mystical

The cathedral spires are so wild, and this route embodies the rugged nature of the place. It's like climbing on a giant gargoyle, arcing into the sky.

Added: 2007-04-27

Red Point Red Point ascent by: steve-o on 2005-06-06 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

definitely an old-school 5.8 as a few moves were tricky. First climb ever in the Cath Spires and worth the trek. First time using my hemet cam too! Seeing the mountain goat with kid from the summit was a nice touch.

Witnessed by: Brit Flinchbaugh
Added: 2005-06-06