Either start in the 3-4 gulley for the regular route (5.7-- we did not do this one but the linkup is the point at the top of the gulley where there is a step across a chasm to an old piton, then step left and move up and then right back into the shallow crack), or in the 4-5 gulley for the variation (5.6 to 5.7-- this runs up the opposite side from the east to the step across to the old piton). The route is runout on the second pitch and requires some mental fortitude. We broke it into 2 pitches from the 4-5 gulley. The second pitch starts at the ledge before the step across to the old piton, and is long-- there will be substantial rope drag. After the horn (you could belay there to make a 3rd pitch if you wanted) you can go left and into the wide crack to the top (as suggested on BH climbing site) or right and do easy but freaky unprotected face climbing to the top. The climbing overall is not difficult but be prepared for some awkward moves. You can reach the 4-5 gulley with a 60 meter rap from the summit, provided you are over a buck twenty five in pounds. If not there is another station. 2 bolts for the rap anchor on the east side. The summit is spitting distance from the summit of spire 4, which is the tallest. South Tower is reportedly about 20 feet shorter.
Submitted by: drrock on 2005-09-15
Route ID: 68858