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Spire 4 - 5.4

Average Rating = 4.20/5 Average Rating : 4.20 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)
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Jan and Herb Conn
Rock (Trad)
PG13
3
Light rack is enough, bolted anchors. PG 13 somes from the suspect rock quality!
250
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 5.00/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 5.00/5
  Fun Factor 3.67/5

Description:

From the parking lot along Needles Highway hike up the Cathedral Spires Trail. About 20-30 minutes up the hill, look for the faint trail on the right up to the 2-3 gully. Look for a climbers trail in front of Station 13 that ends at a pine tree. From here suit up and lead or scrable up the entrance pitch (5.0) to the gully between Spires 3 and 4. There are anchors at the top. From those anchors, head uphill towards the Spire 4 route. The 5.4 chimney leads up to a hole in a roof formed by several chock stones. You can worm your way through the hole or take the first ascent route out on the face. (Jan and Herb later created the hole in order to down climb). The hole is not as small as it seems, but don't get stuck! Belay above the worm hole and enjoy watching your friends struggle through. The last pitch scrambles up and right. Put a few pieces of gear in and enjoy a thrilling step across a void to reach the main spire. Belay from the anchors there. Enjoy the view and sign in knowing there have been many of climbings greats there before you. Totally classic.

Descent Options:

Down lead like Jan and Herb did or from the top with a 60M rope rap to the anchors above the worm hole. From those anchors do a 2 rope rap to the 3-4 gully. From the anchors of the 3-4 gully, do a one rope rap to your gear.

Submitted by: atg200 on 2006-12-02
Views: 1344
Route ID: 5297

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13 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: ascentia on 2007-10-12 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Cathedral Spire 4

Climbed with a guide from Sylvan Rocks.

Added: 2010-08-10

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: csproul on 2007-07-25 (View Climbing Log)

2 out of 5 stars wormhole route

The route actually kind of sucks, but puts you on a very cool summit. Go around the wormhole unless you really like squeezing through really tight spaces

Added: 2007-08-16

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: ktboundary on 2007-07-26 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Spire 4

Spire 4

Added: 2007-07-26

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: franzr on 1993-07-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Intense for the grade

As a fledgling leader I went up this route and got freaked by the step across (to my credit it was super windy that day). I've gone back since and chuckled at my early temerity.

Added: 2007-04-11

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.4
  Safety Rating G
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: jen_c on 2006-09-05 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

This has to be by far one of the most fun routes I have ever climbed!!! The wormhole is way cool.

Added: 2006-09-05

... Read all 13 ascent notes