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chossic - 5.7

Average Rating = 0.00/5 Average Rating : 0.00 out of 5
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me Mabee and my bro
Rock (Trad)
G
3
Lots of big gear
475
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty (Not Rated)
  Safety Rating (Not Rated)
  Exposure (Not Rated)
  Rock Quality (Not Rated)
  Scenery (Not Rated)
  Fun Factor (Not Rated)

Description:

Start in large chiminey on the bottom left of the 5/6 gulley. When the chiminey gets about the width of your out streched arms there is another chiminey that goes to the left, this is the sart of the 5th class climbing. P(1) 5.6, 180ft Go into the chiminey then go right at about 30 to 40 feet with fun stemming and a good hand crack that turns to a low angle chiminey/ramp. This leads to a two bolt anchor at about 120ft. We then ran it out to the left of the anchor for another 60ft to a sling and cam belay. This pitch is very good to the anchor and had obviously been done before. It is a 5 star pitch to the anchor. p(2) 5.1, 150ft We then went up from the belay 20ft to a trough on the right and then went to a hand crack and a large chiminey with vegitaion in it. We stopped at a huecoed offwidth on the left and set up a belay. p(3) 5.7,150ft Go up the offwidth with as many large pieces as you have we had two #6 camolots. After you get through the squeeze at about 60ft go right to a licheny hand crack and more chimineying to the the top of one of spire 5's many summits. This certainly may have been done before but it is worth checking out as well as several other routes on spire 5. I have done 5 different routes on the spire over the last year all were adventurous and fun as I had no beta when I started. There is good rock and gear on the route but on the last pitch there is a fair amount of lichen and some loose rock on some ledges. It is a safe route for careful climbers with a beg rack or "nuts"(take your pick). It gets somewhere between one and five stars in my book and is certainly "Chossic". Mad ramblings and confessions of a reformed sport climber. MM

Descent Options:

We down climbed 10ft off the other side of the spire to a slung horn then rapped toward East Gruesome through the gap between Blockhead and some other spire that you can easily see the rap bolts on, for a half rope length. We then rapped off slings betwe

Submitted by: pitons on 2007-08-28
Views: 398
Route ID: 87851