Middle Earth is truly a scene from a J.R.R. Tolken story. The scenery is incredible, with lush pines, perfect crystalline granite, and Sylvan Lake. Most routes were established by Herb and Jan Conn, Dr. Peter DeLannoy, Cindy Tolle, Paul Muehl, and a handfull of others. The area is a testament to the traditional climbing style these people practiced. Most routes were put up on lead, so be prepared to take advantage of natural protection that abounds (chickenheads, cracks, be creative). The routes range from 5.4-mid 11's.
Camp at one of the various campsites in the park, but Sylvan Lake campground has showers. For eats, visit Custer or Hill City. For a day off, hike Harney Peak, the highest point in the U.S. east of the Rocky Mountains. There is some very good bouldering here, too.