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Route sequence (left to right): 3
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
Jan and Herb Conn
Mid to really small cams, with a #3 or 4 big bro or two if you got it.
Follow the trail around the north side of the Needles Eye Bell tower mass. where the trail opens up...the route starts up the chimney on your left. Its a bit of a gruntfest to get off the ground. Make sure to take tons of over the shoulder or longer slings.
Once above the chockstone, things back off for a little bit. The Chimney splits...follow the left side till you see a section of biggish hand and footholds upon which you can change from one to the other, then head over to the right chimney. Once you start into this traverse, it's is a long ways (past an old soft iron piton that you cant clip) till...like 20+ feet... you can get a big bro in on the other chimney...no big bro...bring your big boy pants...even with a big bro...its probably mostly "psychological" gear at best.
Just keep wriggling and cranking up the Chimney till you get to the top of the tower that makes up the right side of the chimney...at the top, the bolts will appear on the top and most likely behind you (I climbed it with my right shoulder in, but had to swap the rack from side to side twice on the way up) Belay at the bolts on a comfortable seat.
Pitch 2: Lean over and step back across onto the Bell tower mass. climb up a few moves to a horizontal with a piton in it. Clip the pin and start looking for openings where you can put in some small cams. hands high and feet low...follow the horizontal around to the left, putting small cams with long runners on as you go. Once into the left chimney again, use a 4 foot sling to clip a bolt. With your left side in, start a 20+ foot runout to a orange metolius/nut placement. This part is way run out, but its the fun kind of chimney climbing...not all balled up and fighting for every inch , but back on one wall, good feet on the other. Past the placement another body length, you can sling a horn with a 4 foot sling, stand on the top of the rock you were leaning on, step onto the wall your feet were on, and climb to another bolt. From there run to the summit saddle watching for loose rock and lichens. You might be able to get to the anchors, but I built a gear anchor and brought up my partner Peter Lev. Both pitches are about 110 feet. Very important to manage your rope drag or you will be pulling hard rope drag while climbing big runouts.
From the summit, climb down a few body lengths to the north and rap from chains with 2 ropes...approx 180 feet will put you on the ground.
Submitted by: sylvanrocks on 2009-05-06
Route ID: 99351