From the backside of the conglomerate of spires, start in chimney created between Bloody Spire and Moraine Spire. There's a crack on the inside on Bloody Spire that will take medium protection. Follow weakness up and right to just above Moraine spire. Set belay, otherwise you'll get to see the rope drag monster. From belay, continue right until you can stem up between Bloody and Homeward Spires. You'll get protection before and after the stemming. At the upper horizontal, follow it left until (you'll pass a pin) you hit a cleft in the center of the spire. Follow this 10ft to the top. Rap anchors on the backside of the spire, one rope will get you down safe.
Submitted by: ramylson on 2002-09-03
Route ID: 23303