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Doody Direct - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.50/5 Average Rating : 4.50 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (4)
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Rock
Standard rack + anchors
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.00/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.50/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

This is a fantastic route and good adventure value! It has crack and face climbing as well as a cool and airy "step across" move. Follow the approach in the Gnomon rock description. At the base of the spire, follow it around to the left. Scramble up a gully to the NW face. When you are at a gently overhanging 30' crack, drop your pack. This is it! The crack starts out finger size and quickly goes to bomber hands. About 2/3 way up the crack, one can finesse a traverse right on good feet. OR continue up the crack which widens. Sling the horn at the top of the crack and scramble up the gully a bit. Find the best place to step across. This is a cool move and the holds are good. Meander up a bit. This is a bit spooky since the sling at the top of the crack is your last gear. The holds are good though a bit friable. Clip and back up the fixed pin to your left. Gently climb up to the ledge. Set some directionals. Climb the seam to the delight of the tourists and you're up. Unless you want to do a hanging belay, make sure to bring some cams (approx. #1-#3 friends) for the belay ledge. Don't forget to sign the summit register.

Submitted by: renobdarb on 2003-03-18
Views: 604
Route ID: 33735

4 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating PG13
Flash Flash ascent by: porkchop_express on 2011-06-12 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars awesome climb!

I got off route at the top and so my protection was poor as was the 2nd half of the climbing. Move fast through the bottom crack-good rest before the step across--which isnt that bad. At the upper ledge (20 or so feet below the summit) you want to go all the way around to the right and follow a low angle crack to the top. I didnt go all the way around but went straight up the arete. My last pieces were shit and at least 15 feet below. It would have been ugly. Made it through, located my error on the rap down! Great summit!

Added: 2012-05-18

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Second Second ascent by: tigerlilly on 2010-09-16 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Can you say "runout?"

Last bit is pretty runout, and pretty steep. Glad I was the follower and not the leader. Good gear up to there, though

Added: 2010-09-30

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: kubok13 on 2010-07-02 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars none

quality

Added: 2010-07-16

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ktboundary on 2008-06-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Ascent Header

None

Added: 2008-07-09