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Needles Eye - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.67/5 Average Rating : 4.67 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
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Rock
Very runout. Quickdraws for fixed pins, slings for horns, a black alien or 00 tcu can go between th
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure 4.50/5
  Rock Quality 4.50/5
  Scenery 4.00/5
  Fun Factor 4.50/5

Description:

Scary. Start on the downhill side below the guardrail. Climb unprotected to the big shoulder which can be slung. Run it out 40 feet up the arete 5.7 to two bad fixed pins, slinging a horn or two for psychological pro on the way. Use screamers on the pins and back them up with a small cam. Traverse along the seam and then launch up 30 fet of hard 5.8 crystal climbing to the top. Breath a sigh of relief. If you fall your death will likely be captured on a tourist's video camera. Stellar route.

Submitted by: atg200 on 2001-10-22
Views: 1081
Route ID: 5649

8 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating R
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: lucander on 2010-08-11 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Needles Eye

Hats off to Rich Goldstone for an FA in the 1960s on this. Don't take much gear...because there's not a lot. A screamer on one of the pins might be comforting.

Added: 2010-09-03

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: stamplis on 2008-08-19 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars _

Didn't have a proper guidebook, just a list of classics and rough route descriptions. Realized as I was looking up towards the fixed pin what I was getting into. Looking down and seeing the dozen tourists taking pictures of you will complete your Needles "experience". A running belay MIGHT keep you from taking a 70 foot grounder before clipping the pin but I wouldn't want to test that theory! Did it in 1 pitch with long slings on everything: even with this I had some bad rope drag at the finish.

Added: 2008-08-21

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Solo Solo ascent by: fubar on 2000-04-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Always on Camera

When you're climbing near the road, prepare to be videotaped...

Added: 2007-11-16

Ratings
  Difficulty
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: el_capitan on 2002-09-01 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Very runout and scary. Bring small cams and nuts. Make sure that you are very comfortable at this level, or even a few higher before attempting this route.

Added: 2002-09-01

Ratings
  Difficulty
Onsight Onsight ascent by: drkodos on 1997-07-12 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 1997-07-12

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