This starts in the gully on the uphill side of the spire. Climb a steep face past three fixed pins to a large flake, which could be slung. Move up and left about 15 feet to a bolt that protects the traverse. A stopper can be placed in a crack before the ring bolt. Traverse right to a bolt and then up to the top. This is one of the best routes in the Needles. When on the peak setup a belay station using a few slings around the middle camelback. Bring the second up to clean the route and lower him/her down to use as a counterweight for a saddle rappel to the other side. There are three pitons at the start and a ring bolt and a bolt higher up. The ring bolt is left and up from the horn after an area where a good nut placement is possible. To reach the bolt step to the right for couple of holds then up to the bolt. Continue up and left around the corner up to the camel back.
Submitted by: johnr9q on 2004-09-18
Last Modified: 2011-09-19
Route ID: 5652
The three-headed dog bit me on this one, I had to lower off a nut in order to retrieve my glasses, which fell off of me. When finally completed, this was a fine & sustained 5.8 - certainly lives up to the hype.