CONN DIAGONAL 5.8 on the backside of Outer Outlet.
This three pitch classis is no doubt one of Jan and Herb Conns finest achievements. Park at the General Store and hike towards the dam. Through the tunnel turn left and head up hill to the brown Custer State Park Cabin Turn right and go downhill the base and around past Rhino Rock to the left side of the north face of Outer Outlet.
P1: Standing on a small boulder start up this right angling route by climbing the huge flake system. Enjoy the exposed step across just past the rusty piton (protect with a finger sized cam) Climb approx. 130 feet to the first belay (bolts will allow you to rap to the ground if needed).
P2: The grand traverse pitch is a wildly exposed section of climbing across an abyss. Protect with a standard rack up to a WC 3.5 cam (a 4 can be nice for the anchor). A fall here would be difficult to recover from, as it would be hard to get back up to good holds. Belay in the hallway at a gear anchor.
P3: Several variations. The original route follows a jagged crack up and left to a chimney with a wicked fun contortionist entrance. Once the chimney is gained, the climbing is of the fun, but rather unprotected variety. Belay in the huge pothole at the top.
V1: take the 5.8 inward flaring crack up and right to a nice stance on the face. Follow the face/arÍte up to the pot hole belay and donít think about how far away your last piece of gear is.
Be solid at the grade-there is gear on this one but you don't want to fall. You don't even want your second to fall off the traverse pitch.
Rap off the opposite side on the anchors at the top of Jugs (Great Top Rope). Get to them by jumping across the chasm the original route ascended. One rope rap to the 1st ledge then find the second rap anchors behind you (away from the rock 25Ē) and dow
Submitted by: flatspin on 2006-12-02
Route ID: 5679
Route is 5.6 in my Piana book. At that grade, this is arguably the finest rock climb of its grade that I've done - and I'm from the Gunks, a place known for remarkable 5.6 climbing. This is undoubtedly a classic, and it would be hallowed if it were at a more frequently visited crag. Airy, exposed, committing...the essence of trad climbing.