Standard Rack up to 4", lots of long runners to sling horns and keep rope drag down.
CONN DIAGONAL 5.8 on the backside of outer outlet.
This three pitch classis is no doubt one of Jan and Herb Conns finest achievements. From the parking lot in front of the Sylvan Lake General Store hike out towards the dam. Take the road past the remains of the stone structure on the right, down the hill and around past Rhino Rock to the left side of the north face of Outer Outlet.
P1: Standing on a small boulder start up this right angling route by climbing the huge flake system. Enjoy the exposed step across just past the rusty piton (protect with a finger sized cam) Climb approx. 130 feet to the first belay (bolts will allow you to rap to the ground if needed).
P2: The grand traverse pitch is a wildly exposed section of climbing across an abyss. Protect with a standard rack up to a WC 3.5 cam (a 4 can be nice for the anchor). A fall here would be difficult to recover from, as it would be hard to get back up to good holds. Belay in the hallway at a gear anchor. Place plenty of gear and remember your second is almost as exposed as you were on lead.
P3: Several variations. The original route follows a jagged crack up and left to a chimney with a wicked fun contortionist entrance. Once the chimney is gained, the climbing is of the fun, but rather unprotected variety. Belay in the huge pothole at the top.
V1: Take the 5.8 inward flaring crack up and right to a nice stance on the face. Follow the face/arÍte up to the pot hole belay and donít think about how far away your last piece of gear is.
Rap off the opposite side on the anchors at the top of Jugs. Get to them by jumping across the chasm the original route ascended. One rope rap to the 1st ledge then find the second rap anchors behind you (away from the rock 25Ē) and down to the right as
Submitted by: sylvanrocks on 2006-12-02
Route ID: 81355
too bad it doesnt see more action. i thought it was a six...a little stiff for a six when i got on it. great times though. chains on the p1 bolts would be a nice touch. had to simul rap off the flake... but still fun.