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Garfield goes to Washington - 5.8

Average Rating = 4.75/5 Average Rating : 4.75 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (13)
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Rock
Medium to large stoppers, cams, or hexes.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.33/5
  Rock Quality 5.00/5
  Scenery 4.33/5
  Fun Factor 4.33/5

Description:

Park on the left side of the road as driving down towards and before the road descends to the Monument. Walk up about 10 minutes to the base of the wall and follow it to the right. The first pitch is a crack system along a left facing corner. The crux is a slightly overhanging crack about 30 feet up. Good pro below the crack and in the crack can be placed. Two rappel pins to the left can be used for the first belay. The second pitch is easy. Go up on an easy and nice crack and traverse to the right on a shelf. Donít forget to place a pro before the traverse to keep the second safe. Setup the belay 10 feet before the end of the shelf using a horizontal crack. The last pitch goes up past 2 bolts and has fairly long run outs with relatively good holds. At the end of the face turn left again and setup belay on a ledge above the big overhang which was visible directly above the first belay. 2 rappel chains can be found descending using a short steep and narrow V with vegetation and traversing to the left (when facing the wall).

Submitted by: renobdarb on 2003-03-22
Views: 1607
Route ID: 20250

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13 Ascents Recorded

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Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: satch on 2013-08-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Mega Classic

Impressive 8. 3 pitches. Can rap with 2 ropes 30 ft climber's left of the top belay bolt. #5 helps with the first pitch if it's damp as it was in our case. Small offset cams for the last pitch, which has 3 bolts. On the 3rd pitch, be ready for 30 ft runout to the first bolt, but hey, you get to climb through the crystal alcove along the way. You don't get that everyday.

Added: 2013-08-23

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: verticaldancerII on 2010-06-23 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars A fantastic Multi-pitch

My partner and I did the route after recent rains, so the overhanging crack was very wet. Even so, the route went smoothly without slips or mishaps. It was my second's first multi-pitch and he had a blast as well. The entire route protects well and allows a leader to be relatively relaxed, unlike many climbs in the Black Hills. I enjoyed the two bolts on the last pitch, they weren't there when I first climbed this route well over a decade ago.

Added: 2010-06-27

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: tcmercil on 2006-06-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars great multi pitch

great views!

Added: 2007-06-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: moose_droppings on 1976-07-11 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars recomend it

Some good exposure on this akin to some of those at Cathedral and Elkhorn. Many routes on this formation, none of which had names that I recall. A tad runout on top, but still a pg-13 to me.

Added: 2006-11-13

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: secretagent on 2006-05-30 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2006-05-30

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