Near the left side of the White House Wall there is a prominent prow marked with a deep gash. Take the right-to-left diagonalling crack up for 50 feet then straight up the crack above to the natural belay. First pitch is 100 feet. Second pitch traverse out about six feet then straight up to the overhanging block, undercling and jamming move out right till you gain a small pod at the bottom of a V formed by two joining cracks. Take the left crack up trending back to the right up some seams that can be protected with small brass nuts and stoppers. Follow this up and left clipping one bolt and make for the large chicken head. Here the taller you are the easier it is. Climb up to horizontal crack and set your belay. Second pitch is about 140 feet. The third pitch starts off to the right of the belay. Clipping another bolt and using stopper placements, climb up to where you can set a belay to the left before the weakness that will take you around to the right. Third pitch about 100 feet. The fourth pitch you traverse to the right on a sloping face weakness. Follow this around until you see a line of bolts. Climb this face with the bolts. 4th pitch about 70 feet. Pitch 3 and 4 can actually be climbed in one long pitch, but is not recommended, as rope drag is terrible.
Submitted by: renobdarb on 2003-03-17
Route ID: 33661