Short and pumpy, but worthwhile. I think Jeff [Noffsinger]fixed the first nut, and I ended up backing it up with another fixed nut (#5 BD) while I was working the crux moves around the corner. I used a #2.5 Clog (= #1 Camalot), and a #4 WC Friend. If you are concerned about getting the first piece of gear placed and clipped in the "buisness section" of the crack, pad the large boulder under the route. I'm pretty tall, so I nearly swung into it and smashed my ankle during a fall. Good luck.