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Sling Blade - 5.10d

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Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (0)
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Jeffrey Dopp & Frank Jackson
Rock (Trad)
Crack, fixed pins, and slung chicken heads
Consensus Ratings
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20 ft to the right of the arete forming the left side of the entrance to The Crack House and 50 ft right of The Nose. Start in an obvious left facing corner. Climb 25 ft then tranverse left under an overhang (death block) 20 ft to the arete. Climb up the arete past a shallow corner with fixed pins to a good ledge, then up and left to a right facing corner and belay. Pitch 2 goes around the left side of the corner then up and rightish (chickenheads) to an amazing belay on a large chickenhead saddlehorn thing with a 2" horizontal above it on the prow of the buttress. Pitch 3 goes pretty much straight up on the chickenhead highway (PG-13) angling left towards the large pine tree (if the beetles haven't gotten it) at the top.

Descent Options:

Rap The Nose

Submitted by: Reinhold on 2007-06-20
Views: 360
Route ID: 86631