Starts just right of Sanscrit in a flaring chimney with a hand crack in the back. Worm up the chimney to a perfect handcrack that quickly becomes fingers. Either go straight up through the roof (10c variation) or traverse 8 feet right to some gear and left trending flake. Pull the bulge and climb the flake with limited gear (clean looking fall). Once at the ledge climb the arete of the big block to chain anchors on the left side of the arete.
Submitted by: douglaskinsman on 2008-03-24
Route ID: 92651
The flared crack near the bottom was crazy hard for me. I just couldn't seem to get my technique down. Anyway took the standard route. Not much pro up there though. Ended up splitting it into two pitches at the ledge to help reduce rope drag. The route incorporates so many different styles of climbing it is crazy!
May be a little more than 10a due to some tough spots to hang out and punch in gear. Really fun crack climbing followed by a juggy flake traverse make this one alot more fun than it looks.
Took a different approach to climbing the chimney this time that makes 10a feel more reasonable. TR-ed the direct and it felt easier than the traditional route, but that is probably due to the difference rope drag makes.