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Can-O-Worms - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.00/5 Average Rating : 3.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (5)
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Rock (Trad)
Medium to large nuts, large hexes and/or cams.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 2.67/5
  Rock Quality 2.67/5
  Scenery 2.67/5
  Fun Factor 3.67/5

Description:

Route is just right of "Precious Orr" and "Golden Gloves." It starts up a chimney to a crack system just below a small tree that is on a ledge halfway up the climb. Above the tree, continue to follow the crack system to a large chimney that penetrates a roof. Climb into and through the chimney (harder for big people) and exit near the top onto the face to the climber's left. Face has good holds from this point to the top. 5.8+ This route is not climbed as much as "Precious Orr" because there are no anchor points at the top of the route and the chimney is tight for large people.

Submitted by: fanederhand on 2004-06-28
Last Modified: 2006-12-04
Views: 958
Route ID: 52595

5 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: satch on 2004-11-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars better than it looks

some wide stuff required

Added: 2010-08-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.7
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: Benjisaurus on 2008-12-22 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Interesting moves, unlike anything else at T-Wall...

Easily protected by the small seam on the left side of the chimney, so no large gear is needed until very close to the top (but the climbing is quite easy up top, so you can run it out through the wide gear section...it's not scary). The 5.8 grade seemed a bit high for the climb though. I'm not the "Grading Gestapo" or anything, I guess it depends on your body type. *(I'm 6'2" 185)

Added: 2009-01-04

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2008-11-29 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Can-O-Whoopass

The start is pretty intense like most T-Wall entrances and should be discarded when accounting for the 5.8 rating. The chimney up high is exciting with enough gear and jugs to keep you going. There are bolt hangers at the top with a ratty sling threaded through them. Either leave a sling or use the Stepping Stone anchors off to the right to get down.

Added: 2008-11-29

Ratings
  Difficulty
Red Point Red Point ascent by: theman on 2006-02-01 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

No comment

Added: 2006-02-01

Ratings
  Difficulty
Flash Flash ascent by: fanederhand on 2004-05-08 (View Climbing Log)

0 out of 5 stars Ascent Note

Very nice climb. The top chimney (the crux) is tight and requires paying close attention to gear placement, but is protectable. If you are too large to negotiate the chimney the rating goes way up.

Witnessed by: Michael Ericson
Added: 2004-05-08