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Sunday Gardening - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.80/5 Average Rating : 3.80 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (7)
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Oliver Muff, Mark Thompson - 1986
Rock (Trad)
G
1
Mainly medium gear to #2 Camalot or equivalent. Bolted anchors.
90
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.40/5
  Rock Quality 4.20/5
  Scenery 3.60/5
  Fun Factor 3.80/5

Description:

A nice corner route with excellent protection and a fun roof pull near the top. Starts about 10' left of Totem Pole.

Follow a left-facing corner to a ledge below a blocky roof. Make a short traverse right to a weakness in the roof; pull through this weakness, then move slightly left to finish on the left face of a short dihedral.

Descent Options:

Rap from anchors at the top.

Submitted by: saxfiend on 2007-12-23
Views: 559
Route ID: 9504

7 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 7 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: isara on 2012-03-17 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Interesting

I'm kind of new to trad, but I found the protection to be very complicated on this route. When you go through the overhanging section your slings have to be really long or even doubled to prevent serious rope drag; but in being so long, the fall looks like it would end up on the ledge rather hard. Fun moves, would be super fun on top rope (not for the belayer tho:)

Added: 2012-03-17

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: satch on 2003-10-13 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars interesting

fun moves up high

Added: 2010-07-13

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Top Rope Top Rope ascent by: awelton1 on 2009-11-14 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Fun and Easy

I did not lead this one. It was a fun top rope route for a warm up though!

Added: 2009-11-30

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2007-12-31 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Exposed

One of the better 5.8's @ T-Wall. As mentioned below it is alot easier than it looks from the ground. Plus you can make an exposed hand traverse near the top to access the Infinite Pursuit (10c) or Standard Deviation (10a) anchors for some toprope action.

Added: 2008-01-02

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: saxfiend on 2007-12-22 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Fine moderate

This one doesn't get the attention that Passages or Art do, but it's really a nice 5.8 with some fun moves. The roof looks a lot harder from the ground than it is when you actually get to it and it protects well. Sling your pro long on the traverses or the rope drag will be a pain.

Added: 2007-12-23

... Read all 7 ascent notes