Skip to Content

***In Pursuit of Excellence - 5.9

Average Rating = 4.38/5 Average Rating : 4.38 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 1
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (33)
Premier Sponsor:
Rock
2 #1 Camalots, 2-3 #2 Camalots, and a #4 Camalot, a set of TCUs, 2 and 4 ft. slings.
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 4.12/5
  Rock Quality 4.62/5
  Scenery 4.25/5
  Fun Factor 4.62/5

Description:

This route is a masterpiece of lieback hell. By far one of the most classic routes you will ever climb at this grade. Follow the trail for a couple of hundred yards to a distinct left facing dihedral on dark red rock with a pronounced bulge about 30 ft. up. Lie back up to a small ledge to place the first piece then crank hard to the bulge (strongly suggest placing another piece (#2 Camalot) on the way to the bulge as this is where many people come off and nearly deck). Work left around the bulge with a wide crack to gain a good stance/ rest. Lie back another 30 ft. to the roof and work left around the roof and finish on top of second ledge. While rated 5.9+, this route is considered by many to be grossly sandbagged. *** UBG, here - this climb is hard if you lie it back as I did many years ago when I first led it. However, it really should be jammed in most of the harder sections and really is a 9. I do it every time I visit T-Wall and it's really, really good.

Submitted by: uncle_big_green on 2003-01-20
Views: 1749
Route ID: 1690

33 Ascents Recorded

GoRecord an ascent
GoRead all 33 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: ngolden02 on 2016-11-25 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars definitely a masterpiece of a crack new

waited so long to get on this but it was so worth it! I fell at the crux onto my #3 trying to go for the fist/offwidth crack but then got through this by using the face holds. This route has great rests on it but I had to take before pulling the first mini roof bc I was so tired! used 1 5 after the crux, 2 4s and 2 3s for the big stuff

Added: 2016-11-29

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.10a
  Safety Rating PG13
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: isara on 2014-08-15 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Wow.

I was so intimidated by this route. It as and still is the hardest trad climb I've climbed to date. The crux is obviously the bulging dihedral hand rack but the problem is this thing doesn't let up. The "rests" are very difficult to use so you are just running it to the chains. When I got off this thing I collapsed on the ground, completely fulfilled, with an intense endorphin rush. Do it.

Added: 2014-09-30

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: clemsonscooby on 2011-10-22 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Classic

Lots of fun the entire way. Lavender powercam is highly recommended for the crux. It is better than the BD #2 for that size.

Added: 2011-10-24

Ratings
  Difficulty
  Safety Rating G
Onsight Onsight ascent by: bdc on 2011-10-09 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars .

rope solo

Added: 2011-10-09

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: satch on 1997-11-14 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars Great route, beautiful orange rock

a #4 Camelot helps just past the crux. Hard for 9+.

Added: 2010-07-14

... Read all 33 ascent notes