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*Molly and Rocket - 5.8

Average Rating = 3.80/5 Average Rating : 3.80 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (8)
Premier Sponsor:
Kyle Patrick, Buddy Baldwin, 1986
Rock (Trad)
1
Large cams are needed for the chimney section; otherwise, medium gear (nuts, cams, tricams).
100
Consensus Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure 3.75/5
  Rock Quality 4.00/5
  Scenery 3.75/5
  Fun Factor 3.75/5

Description:

A long and sustained crack climb with some tough moves at the crux. Starts just right of Stone Wave, either from the top of a pointy boulder or from the ground just left of the boulder. Face climb to a cave, then up through a short chimney (crux). Continue through a vertical crack system to the top.

Descent Options:

Topout and rap from slings on a tree.

Submitted by: jeapord on 2006-01-02
Last Modified: 2006-12-09
Views: 1097
Route ID: 72883

8 Ascents Recorded

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GoRead all 8 ascent notes

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: satch on 1996-05-14 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars grunt out that

chimney!

Added: 2010-07-14

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
Second Second ascent by: etabgunks on 2009-02-08 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars MR

Tough chimney

Added: 2009-02-08

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Onsight Onsight ascent by: sketchypro on 2008-05-10 (View Climbing Log)

5 out of 5 stars pretty fun

get ur self ready the chimney move or it might be tuff, there is good gear so go for it

Added: 2008-05-22

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.8
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Red Point Red Point ascent by: douglaskinsman on 2007-12-02 (View Climbing Log)

3 out of 5 stars Real dirty and wide

The start is extremely dirty and involves some OW climbing. The climbing gets much better towards the top as it turns into a good jam crack. Probably on par with Sanscrit in terms of 5.8 difficulty.

Added: 2007-11-05

Ratings
  Difficulty 5.9
  Safety Rating G
  Exposure
  Rock Quality
  Scenery
  Fun Factor
Hang Dog Hang Dog ascent by: saxfiend on 2006-12-09 (View Climbing Log)

4 out of 5 stars Old-school 5.8

This is a cool route, but it's a 5.8 in the same category with Goldenlocks -- a real sandbag. I blew the onsight lead with a fall at the crux (moving through the awkward chimney section) but finished the lead with no further problems. A real workout.

Added: 2006-12-09

... Read all 8 ascent notes