Large cams are needed for the chimney section; otherwise, medium gear (nuts, cams, tricams).
A long and sustained crack climb with some tough moves at the crux. Starts just right of Stone Wave, either from the top of a pointy boulder or from the ground just left of the boulder. Face climb to a cave, then up through a short chimney (crux). Continue through a vertical crack system to the top.
Topout and rap from slings on a tree.
Submitted by: jeapord on 2006-01-02
Last Modified: 2006-12-09
Route ID: 72883
This is a cool route, but it's a 5.8 in the same category with Goldenlocks -- a real sandbag. I blew the onsight lead with a fall at the crux (moving through the awkward chimney section) but finished the lead with no further problems. A real workout.