Average Rating : 4.00 out of 5
Route sequence (left to right): 0
Route Summary | Ascent Notes (1)
Cams .5 - 3, nuts, hexes, atleast three draws, slings, and webbing for the top anchor
Probably my favorite route in the canyon.
After following the trail to the base, follow the cliff left to the Fairytale Wall and a large overhang. There is a good crack in the corner leading to a traverse protected by three 1/4 in bolts.
Climb straight up the crack until it becomes overhanging. Then traverse left protected by three old 1/4 leeper hangers (crux). Be sure to make a BOMBER anchor before clipping the first bolt as they should not be expected to do much more than make you feel better. The middle one is a spinner fyi. Make your way up to the top and belay off of the trees via a ton of webbing.
Walk down an easy gully to the base of the cliff
Submitted by: northfacejmb on 2009-08-30
Route ID: 101485